Eating
One kitchen, three people, a six-burner stove and a charcoal grill. Twenty-two places under the thatch beside the pool.
Dinner
Seven o'clock, one sitting, three courses, no choice. The board at reception says what it is by two in the afternoon. Fish from the boats at Dibulla, usually sierra or pargo. Rice with coconut, which is the thing this coast does better than anywhere. Plantain at nearly every meal, because it is here and it is good.
Tell reception at breakfast if there is something you cannot eat and the kitchen cooks you the same meal without it. The kitchen cooks for the house and for nobody else. Twenty-two places and twelve rooms is already close on a Saturday.
Breakfast
Six until half past nine. Eggs how you want them, arepas, fruit, and coffee from the Sierra roasted in Palomino. If you are walking up the river at six, there will be something wrapped on the counter from half past five.
The counter
Open from four. Beer, rum, a short wine list that suffers in this heat and that we keep short for that reason, and fresh juice all day. It closes at eleven, two hours before the gaming room, and that is deliberate.
Water
Filtered, in jugs, free, on every table and at reception. Do not buy bottled water here. It arrives by truck, the plastic stays in the village, and the filtered water is better.
